FASHION DESIGNING
Fashion is a term commonly used in
relation to clothes, dresses, garments, textiles, etc. There may be styles in a
large number of other things, e.g., furniture, automobiles, etc. In this
Chapter I have dealt with fashion as related to garments and accessories.
In the last fifteen years fashion
designing has gained spectacular prominence. There is increase in quality
textiles materials for the fashion designers to work with. This trend of
fashion consciousness is bound to grow and stay.
Fashion is identified today with
status, acceptance and it almost implies social involvement. India enjoys a
prominent place in the international market with its rich silks, traditional
handloom fabrics, rustic textures and vibrant dyes. The creation of a world
market for Indian garments is largely the contribution of Indian fashion
designers. The trends of growth are set for fashion entrepreneurs.
NATURE OF WORK
There are three main areas of fashion
design and manufacture. These are designing for mass production (wholesale),
fashion trends and large scale manufacture of designer ware. By far the largest
area is wholesale manufacture, where firms mass-produce garments following
fashion trends set in by fashion forecasters. High fashion designs when
simplified and adapted for the common public are suitable for production in
large numbers at low cost. Fashion trend setters are celebrated firms and
fashion houses which produce exclusively designed garments collections. Fashion
shows of collections are held for marketing these designs. Designers, in the
wholesale manufacturing sector, generally specialize in producing certain types
of clothes in a wide range of styles and fabrics, e.g., jeans, jackets,
children wear, men's wear, etc. Some designers specialize in leisurewear,
women's wear; accessories, shoes, knitwear, sportswear. Some others specialize
in designing of costumes for stage artists, TV or film. This work can involve
historical research as well as design.
Stages in the Designing of a Garment
Research - Creation is of a design involves
identifying what customers need and which designs will sell. Even in the
special designers section, designers producing expensive original work keep in
mind factors such as social customs, international fashion trends and fabrics
available. In the wholesale sector, manufacturing designers select and modify
designs which are going to sell. They get 'ideas, by reviewing periodicals and
attending fashion shows, etc. They also take into account competitors' products
and sales information. Trends are anticipated as designs are produced a year in
advance of garments reaching the market. New designs are required for two or
more seasons each year.
Designs - Designers use their creativity to
produce ideas to suit the market's needs. Sketches are used to outline basic
ideas when fabrics are selected. The appearance, quality and texture of fabrics
are taken into account. During manufacturing, the designer liaises with
production staff and the buyer to ensure that mass production is feasible and
cost effective.
Patterns - Designers make formal drawings
indicating the position of seams, folds, darts, etc., but in many cases
patterns are translated from the rough sketches by draftsmen.
Samples - Designers garments are made up for the
show or private clients. In wholesale manufacture, samples are made up before
mass production begins and the designer makes any necessary adjustments.
Changes may be required to suit production/budgetary requirements.
Presentation
- Designers are required to present
their design work to clients. Effective presentation is essential for
designers. They do so through fashion shows, selling to individuals or retail
buyers. Designers market their work and give advice to clients about
adaptations- types of fabric which can be used, different dimensions,
production problems etc. This is a major aspect of the work for many designers.
PERSONAL CHARACTERISTICS
Fashion designers should be artistic
and creative. They should be able to express their ideas in sketches. They may
not be brilliant artists but must be able to combine colors, shades and tones.
Designers have a flair for creating with fabric and know how to use textiles effectively.
Designers need visual imaginary and the ability to think in three-dimensions to
translate into garments what they visualize. They must be fashion conscious and
must be aware of market's requirements. An understanding of the market and
customer lifestyle is required, so that designs are suitable for people they
are made for. Designers must be good communicators. The work involved with
selling, and persuading and influencing are required.
Self-employed/freelance designers need
business acumen. Top designers must be highly original and inventive. Sketching
is not possible at shows, therefore designers must be observant and must have a
good memory.
FASHION INDUSTRY
Design
Department
Manufacturing units work on a large
scale. They employ designers, cutting assistants, sketching assistants, junior
designers. Cutting assistants have to cut samples as per specifications of the
designer. This is followed by draping and garment construction. Sketching
assistants make the technical sketches of the garments which are passed on to
cutting assistants. From the making of specification drawings which decide how
a garment has to be fabricated to the selection of fabrics is often the duty of
the sketching assistant.
Junior designers generally do the
first pattern cutting. They assemble the first samples with fabrics they have
selected from the market.
Marketing and merchandising
Fashion trends are constantly changing
the people in merchandising and marketing have a good knowledge of fashion
trends, of sales data and the organizations marketing objectives. Based on this
information the marketing department plans the company's overall direction. It
determines the price product requirement, and hence they often work with the
styling department when a new product in conceived.
Manufacturing Department
The production manager is at the head
of the manufacturing unit. He is responsible for scheduling work goals,
training of workers, managing all activities in order to maintain quality in
production. The production manager oversees the work of pattern cutting from
pattern grading, spreading and marketing to cutting, assembling and finishing.
With the production manager are production assistants who supervise the work at
each stage.
The production pattern maker makes the
first 'master pattern' of the garment on tough paper. This master pattern is
made in close coordination with the fashion designing department. The master
pattern is made into a number of sizes. Each piece of the garment is
represented by a piece of the' pattern. The fabric is spread out and patterns
are cut. The pieces are assembled for the machine operator and finally finished
by handwork.
This is the process where a number of
people are employed in large manufacturing industries while in smaller units
the same persons may be, doing a number of tasks.
Fashion coordinators coordinate with
the buyer and the production manager. The fashion coordinator makes sure
production schedules are kept, meets buyers goes through specifications for
fabrics, colors, designs and keeps an eye on the quality.
When buyers give their own designs,
the coordinator helps decide the fabric colors and accessories that should be
used to suit the designs. They explain the design to the production pattern
makers and ample pieces made. The sample is draped on a dummy to see if some
changes in details or style are required. Once the sample is finalized, its
pieces are measured precisely. It is the coordinator who suggests how the cloth
should be cut so as to minimize wastage. The garment is then and finally
presented or sale.
TRAINING
Fashion designing courses are
generally offered to students after +2. The course imparts training in all the
aspects-of garment manufacture. However, the quality of training varies from
institute to institute. There are very prestigious and competitive courses in
fashion technology offered by National Institute of Fashion Technology, New
Delhi which has gained tremendous applause for training perhaps some very
prominent fashion designers. Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay too is a well known
training school. Fashion designers, however, are being trained by some newer
institutes also. In the courses section the reader will mind a complete
description of the courses at NIFT- New Delhi, Sophia - Bombay and the
addresses of some polytechnics in Delhi. Students in other parts of the country
are advised to visit local polytechnics and vocational training institutes for
courses in fashion design.
COURSE DESCRIPTION
Accessory Design This three year
diploma program introduces students to basic design concepts, visualization
techniques, manipulation of materials and techniques of interpretation, leading
to the creation of costume jewelry and accessories in various materials and
traditional Indian craft styles. Students are taught portfolio and presentation
techniques, given marketing inputs and trained in design management.
This program offers careers as Design
Coordinators, Managers and prepares them for entry into the emerging market of
accessory export from India.
Fashion Design
The curriculum for this three years
diploma program covers the development of the garment from source of
inspiration to the finished product. Technical aspects like fashion art,
pattern making, garment construction, grading and draping are taught and practiced.
Subjects like History of Costumes and Textiles, Apparel Fabric Studies, Textile
Science round off the education program.
Students are taught presentation
techniques, organization of shows and preparation of Art portfolio to link
aspects of creative marketing in the curriculum. Individual creativity is
articulated into design collections and projects.
This program offers students the
opportunity to take up positions as Fashion Coordinators, Stylists,
pattern makers and Designers.
Apparel Marketing and Merchandising
This course is a specialized two year
post graduate diploma program which covers practical aspects of the fashion
industry, with a focus on marketing & merchandising. Students undergo
rigorous training in buying, merchandising, retail operations, fashion
coordination, advertising, forecasting, international marketing, trade
documentation and project formulation.
They are exposed to creative
merchandising/marketing following domestic and international marketing
practices, forecasting & other factors. Training is also imparted in
computer applications in business and the students are also given production
oriented inputs to develop competitive professionals.
This program prepares students for
careers in middle management level in functional areas of international
marketing, retail & inventory management. The course is supported all
through the program by industry projects and presentations.
Garment Manufacturing Technology
This two year postgraduate level
diploma program covers aspects of optimal resource utilization and timely
delivery of quality merchandise to customers. The syllabus is practical, based
on classroom and laboratory simulation of current factory and business trends.
It includes subjects such as business administration, industry and engineering
concepts and techniques of production
patternmaking, strategic planning and an in-depth knowledge of seams,
stitches and machine types. Time and motion studies are applied to critical
activities like spreading, marking and cutting, ensuring high standards of
quality control and garment specification.
This program prepares students for
careers in middle management levels in garment manufacturing firms. The
graduates are employed as Production Managers. While trained in assembly-line
simulations, they are also capable of handling job-work with tailor based
units. Graduates with engineering background are more suited for this course.
Leather Garment Design and Technology
The course has inputs on Production
System and Garment engineering skills, leather garments manufacturing
processes, design forecast and awareness and skills, patternmaking techniques
and concepts, garment specifications and international size charts, selection
of trimmings etc.
This is a modular program, which
allows the students to specialize either as Designers/Stylists or Managers in a
Leather company. It is a two year professional program at the Post
Graduate level. The program offers
graduates career as Production
Managers with a firm grasp of the
principles of design and pattern making/cutting or Designers/Stylists with a
thorough knowledge of pattern making and cutting on production methods.
Knitwear Design and Technology
This two year diploma program provides
students with the opportunity to study and practice the inter-related aspects
of Knitwear and Knitted product design, along with the required aspects of
technology. The course aims to prepare students who understand the important
combination of creativity with a sound knowledge of materials and processes.
Technical aspects like fashion art,
pattern making, garment construction and grading are included. The training will
develop skills in the student to produce a range of knitted products which
demonstrate research, analysis, costing, technology application and design to a
professional standard. Industry internship will provide students with awareness
and experience of the related aspects of the business and industry.
The program will enable students to
enter the knitted products industry as fully functioning designers who are business/technology
aware.
Textile Design and Development
The Textile Design and Development has
inputs which has both design and technology. The course is designed to explain
the concepts of textile design from the stage of the original fiber till the
final product.
The course is a two year master’s
course after graduation and includes inputs of textile, sketching, printing,
weaving and computer application to cover woven, print and embroidery designs.
In the final year, the students will be mostly doing practical design projects
with clients.
The program offers the opportunities
to graduates to take up careers as Textile Design Technologists, in Print
Houses, handloom industry, Mills Sector
and the Garment Export Houses.
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